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Las Vegas’s success as our perpetual playground has always been
based on the town’s uncanny timing to know just when to change its
image… and put on a brand new face. This time around Vegas is back as
a global theme park — a place some say has forsaken its own storied
past.
“This is a town I’m not
familiar with now,” says comedian Alan King. But he says, “I’m
very pleased for the town.”
King feels there’s something
missing from the new Vegas playground. “The soul’s gone. There is no
soul, you know, in Disneyland. Now, it’s bigger, but it’s not as
much fun.”
The intimacy this town banked on is
long gone. The strip’s been sanitized for public consumption by the
only people with the cash to pull it off — corporate America. |
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“It really was the
corporations and not the FBI that drove the mob out of town,” says
author Peter Earley, who spent a year on the strip writing the book
“Super Casino.”
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“You’ll never find a place like Las Vegas. And it is pure
American. Where else but in the middle of the desert, where there should
be nothing at all… would you build this great sanctuary to excess?”
What’s really transformed the Las
Vegas landscape is the emergence of the so-called super casinos —
whether it’s the pyramids, the Eiffel Tower, or the entire NYC
skyline, they’re actually hotels — hotels that are bigger, glitzier,
more extravagant and expensive than any hotel man has ever built before
anywhere.
The Luxor — you could park nine
747’s in the lobby. It’s ancient Egypt with air conditioning… and
over four thousand rooms.
The Paris — France without
attitude with cobblestone streets leading you through a constantly
charming French village.
And the Bellagio with Lake Como —
tailored for tourists with dancing fountains and a Broadway beat.
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A
gondola ride at the Venetian hotel in Las Vegas
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It’s an American fantasy, a glossy postcard from anywhere and
everywhere you’d want to be. A city with an ambience and architecture
only a genius or a child might dream up.
Sheldon Adelson is the latest
billionaire to reshape Vegas… a master builder.
He brought Venice to the desert as
a gift to his wife.
“She said the combination of
luxury, romance, and excitement would give us the longevity we were
looking for,” says Adelson.
More than two billion dollars was
the price tag for that gift.
Adelson says with laughter, “but
who’s counting?”
Is it a risky venture, so much
capital invested?
It isn’t, in Adelson’s mind.
He was certain that if he built it,
we would come to Venice all cleaned up without the flooding, no odor and
no unsightly things floating in the canal.
Adelson has duplicated every
column, every bridge, every detail in his 3,000-room hotel… the
Venetian. |
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What’s
really transformed the Las Vegas landscape is the emergence of the
so-called super casinos — whether it’s the pyramids, the Eiffel
Tower, or the entire NYC skyline, they’re actually hotels — hotels
that are bigger, glitzier, more extravagant and expensive than any hotel
man has ever built before anywhere.
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Right down to the pigeons on the piazza.
The town’s vision of leisure as
lifestyle has evolved to suit the whims of today’s world of armchair
travelers and their disposable income. For professor Hal Rothman, Vegas
is a window like none other on American culture.
“What Las Vegas does is take the
rough edges off of Paris or New York and clean’em off for you and make
it a place where middle class America is very comfortable,” says
Rothman.
Adelson says, “Las Vegas is truly
a form of entertainment — that capital of entertainment. But the
definition of entertainment has changed.”
That change is felt by those who
were one headliners in the old Las Vegas.
“No, there’s very little [work]
… there’s few places for me to work,” says King.
And there’s only one performer
who’s remained in the spotlight through all the remakes and changing
times. That’s why he’s known as Mr. Las Vegas.
“Part of what made Vegas great is
the star policy entertainer. The saloon singer if you will… Frank
Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis… those are the people that made Las
Vegas what it is,” says current Vegas headliner Wayne Newton.
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Wayne
Newton, nightclub singer, kisses his fans during a performance.
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In fact, as the casinos have been recast as a spectacle for mass
consumption, so has the entertainment industry.
From King Arthur’s court, to a
pirate battle, headliners like Wayne Newton now have to share the strip
with white tigers and a host of newcomers.
Like Stella Umeh, a former Olympic
gymnast, who’s just come to town to be part of Cirque de Soliel’s
“Mystere.”
Selling out 3,000 seats a night,
Stella is part of a cast of hundreds.
“It’s performance art yet
coupled with gymnastics and dance and acrobatics. So there are all these
crazy circus things mixed in with the theater. So it is totally
different from what a usual patron might be used to,” says Umeh.
It’s a very long way from the
Vegas made famous in the fiction of Martin Scorcese’s “Casino.”
That was a time when the mob took
its daily skim. The character Robert DeNiro played was Frank “Lefty”
Rosenthal, a bookie turned top casino boss.
“The aura, the feeling, the
service was so far superior to today’s modern-day Las Vegas,” says
Rosenthal.
Today, Lefty’s banned from the
casinos, blacklisted by an industry that he says has turned the town
pedestrian and commonplace.
“The best analogy I can give you
is today it’s a subway scene, when I was there, it was limousine.”
These days, Lefty and the mob are
largely gone from Vegas. All you can find is one man who even knew the
wise guys of the past.
Las Vegas Mayor Oscar Goodman says,
“I’ve been here 35 years practicing law and the characters in the
film ‘Casino’ I mean in real life they were all my clients.”
Oscar Goodman built his reputation
defending notorious Vegas mobsters like Tony Spilotro… but Goodman
reinvented himself to suit a changing Vegas, and in 1999, was elected
mayor. “I think that if we forget where we come from we lose our
mystique. I often say that people want to see a little Bugsy Siegel
around here and not a little Mickey Mouse.”
But is city hall run by the mob?
Goodman says no. |
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Las
Vegas Mayor Oscar Goodman
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“City hall’s just not run by
the mob… it’s run by the mayor. And the mayor… his relationship
with the mob is a thing of the past.”
Financial analyst Jason Ader says
the mob is also a thing of the past with gambling in Vegas also.
“There’s no fooling around anymore and for all intents and purposes
the Mafia is out of the Las Vegas business, out of the casino business
overall.”
It’s the staggering profits now
at stake — seven billion dollars a year — that keep Ader busy full
time, keeping track of the super casinos for their new “boss” —
Wall Street.
He says, “if you are looking to
deploy capitol into an exciting area that’s also generating a
meaningful amount of profits, the casinos will show up as one of the
best places to do that.”
And with that kind of legitimate
backing behind the new Vegas, the X-rated side of town is tougher to
find.
Is it still sin city?
Goodman says no. “There are more
things to do here for adults than anyplace.”
But Vegas isn’t just anyplace.
For a century, its essence has been about pushing the boundaries of
illicit fun. But, despite the town’s corporate clean up, its naughty
reputation lives on.
“Vegas has history,” says one
stripper. “It’s the excitement of Vegas — everyone wants to come
here.”
“You can behave in ways that
people at home would be embarrassed for you and here it’s totally
acceptable, why because it’s Las Vegas, because it’s a sin-free
zone. It’s a place where you can do whatever it is you want to do as
long as you are willing to pay for it,” says Rothman.
Earley says, “Vegas is a town of
glitz and glamour, but underneath there’s also this underbelly of
despair, of heartache, of sex. It’s the mirror image of the glitz and
the glamour and it’s a very sad story.”
It’s a story that lives in the
shadows of the strip. But even there, the trail of money kicked off by
the super casinos means business… even if it’s illegal prostitution. |
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The
super casinos have brought more business, says this Las Vegas
prostitute.
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A Vegas prostitute says the super
casinos have brought her more business.
What does she know about Vegas that
the rest of the country doesn’t?
“Well, we say they come to gamble
and pick up hookers. Well that’s basically what they do.”
If the chamber of commerce says
they come for the gaming and the entertainment, she say she is part of
the entertainment.
That’s about all that’s left of
the old image of sin city. Today’s Vegas is being cleaned and scrubbed
and remade, by a new force of legitimate working women and men. They are
the ones making Las Vegas a different type of destination — a land of
opportunity for those chasing the American fantasy of a better life.
If the super casinos are what makes
Las Vegas an irresistible draw for millions of tourists… it’s the
jobs those casinos create that make Vegas a land of opportunity for the
people who actually live here. This may be the best town in America for
working men and women. It’s a new hot-bed of union power, a place
where blue-collar dreams still come true. And as millions of American
jobs continue to be exported overseas and factories continue to close
down, many are calling Las Vegas the last Detroit.
Glen Arnodo says “It’s pretty
much the untold story of the American labor movement.”
When Glen Arnado moved to Vegas in
1985, he thought it would be a lonely outpost for a labor organizer.
Then came September 21, 1991, and
the beginning of one of the hardest-fought battles in American union
history.
The marathon strike by the Frontier
workers over wages and benefits was at times turbulent and violent.
But it would galvanize the rank and
file of Vegas into a national labor powerhouse.
“It took a tremendous toll on
people. We had a number of strikers die during the six and a half year
strike. Uh, it was very hard… very hard. But on the other hand, it
made the union real,” says Arnodo.
“For the worker, for the
immigrant, there’s no other way but the union way,” says Esmeralda
Guzman.
For 10 years, beginning as a
teenager, Mexican-American Esmeralda Guzman picked fruit in the bitter
fields of California’s San Joaquin Valley. But in 1993 she made her
move to Vegas and found a way to begin breaking out of the cycle of
permanent poverty.
Why did she come to Vegas?
Guzman says it was the economic
opportunities that attracted her and her family.
“I guess the best way to describe
it is that people are handing out jobs left and right.”
Workers are flocking to Vegas,
6,000 strong a month. Since the arrival of the super casinos, union
membership has tripled — making this town one of the few places in the
country where union power is on the rise.
Arnodo says, “and so, we get
people migrating or immigrating to Las Vegas from every point in the
United States, and every country in the world.”
For blue-collar workers, Vegas is
perhaps the only place in America where they can earn as much as $75,000
a year.
It’s the human dimension of the
new incarnation of the Las Vegas strip, the working class flipside
generated by the explosive growth of the super casinos.
“And for every room that we build
here, for every new room, there are five families that have to move in
to service it,” says Goodman.
“This is where the action is, if
you want to be excited about work, about play — this is the town to
come to,” says Hattie Canty who supervises a training center for
anyone willing to work. A former chambermaid, she is now president of
the 50,000 member union representing cooks, dishwashers and maids.
“And I’ve always said that the maids in this town carries this town
on it’s back,” she says.
And with over 200,000 beds to make
every day, Vegas has ironically become a new version of the classic
American factory town.
Guzman says, “Maybe it’s pretty
good wages compared to the rest of the country. But could you imagine
doing it?”
She admits it is rough work.
“Could you imagine cleaning 16
toilets, making 24 beds? There’s not a price on it.”
The working class Vegas is rooted
in the immigrant ideal of making life better for the next generation —
even if it means enduring backbreaking work.
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“My Mom, she’s just like, comes home from work. She’ll eat
like some food. Little dinner. She’ll go straight to bed,” says
Abraham. He and his friends at Rancho High understand the depth of the
sacrifice their parents have made.
“It’s just the end of my
mom’s health, you know? She’s a very hard-working woman. And um,
she’s wearing herself out,” says Mariana.
The teens believe the hardest part
of their parents working so hard was that they had to basically raise
themselves.
That’s because Abraham’s mother
Noemi Bresano — an educated woman from Guadalajara in Mexico has kept
house in Vegas for more people than she can count.
“In Las Vegas? In 7 years?
Probably like 12,000… or more” says Bresano.
Now she has her own.
But the payoff for Noemi and
Esmeralda’s families is the kind of modest, affordable home that can
change their very lives.
Guzman describes the day she first
moved into her house.
“Sometimes you think it’s never
gonna happen. But it was like success. It was sweet.”
This is where you will find the
pioneer spirit of the old Vegas alive and well. With new homes going for
as low as $70,000 these communities are changing the ethnic make-up of
the Las Vegas Valley — now close to 200,000 Latino residents.
“You can walk into any casino,
and the work force there, they’re Latino,” says Amanda.
She says while most of the
customers are Anglos, the service people are Latinos.
And what would happen to Vegas if
all the Latinos walked off the job?
“Man, that wouldn’t be Las
Vegas,” says Amanda.
These kids understand that the
tourists who pack the super casinos are roped off in the fun house —
oblivious to the real lives being led off the strip.
Amanda says, “they don’t
realize there’s communities here, and they don’t realize there’s
families here, you know? I can’t count how many times I’ve been
asked, uh, which casino do you live in? What do you mean what casino do
I live in? I live in a house.”
The legions of tourists and the
people who service them live in a parallel universe — with little in
common.
But has the fantasy world of the
super casinos come at the price of ignoring the real world needs of
Vegas’s new work force.
The answer may be yes — at least
judging by the way 23,000 kids must go to school each day — jammed
into stuffy, windowless boxes.
The students agree that the city
needs to catch up a little bit more… and less focus on casinos and a
little more on education.
“They put up casinos and bring
them down so fast, it’s amazing. But yeah our schools need help,”
says Amanda.
Five minority high school students
suggest that the casinos get all the action, they get all the priority
from government and that their schools… they lag behind.
“Well, they’re not right,”
says Mayor Goodman. “These youngsters, they may have that feeling that
the hotels are favored. If the youngsters feel they’re getting the
short end of the stick, have’em come down to city hall, the mayor’ll
take care of ‘em.”
The truth is this is now the
country’s fastest growing school system — adding 15,000 new students
and building a dozen new schools a year.
And it’s not just the schools…
everywhere Vegas is bursting at the seams.
Not enough roads for all the cars,
not enough access to the water needed for all the growth and good times.
And a dusty haze hanging over the
once pristine valley.
Can they manage the growth?
“We have to manage the growth. We
don’t have a choice. Because that’s what makes Las Vegas great,”
says Goodman.
“I don’t think it would be
possible for any city to really keep up with growth like this. I think
the growth is… the growth rate is just phenomenal. And I don’t know
that there’s another example of it in… in American history, much
less in the last fifty years,” says Rothman.
It’s the new frontier, a magnet
for working people happy to overlook this town’s growing pains for a
shot at a place in the latest version of Vegas.
So, Vegas may not be Sin City
anymore, but is it the place where the American Dream lives?
Glen Arnodo still thinks so.
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“It really is. You know, uh,
again, I, I can’t imagine many places where if you’re a hotel maid
and you end up cleaning fifteen or sixteen rooms every day, at the end
of the day you go home to your own house and uh, you can really achieve
the American Dream, and have a pretty decent life for you and your
kids.”
But there’s another kind of
American dream in Vegas. It’s as old as the town itself — it’s an
unattainable expectation of beating the house.
Peter Earley thinks it’s about
getting something for nothing. “It’s about putting a quarter in the
machine and winning a million dollars. It’s about imagining riches you
could never win any other way.”
Building the American dream in Las
Vegas has not come without a price.
“As you drive by the volcano and
you drive by the New York skyline and you drive by the wonderful
pyramid, they are the reminder that some people have lost everything to
build these castles in the sky,” says Earley.
The arrival of Las Vegas as a
world-class destination has come with a cost not tallied in fantasies
fulfilled or casino profits — but rather in lives destroyed by
gambling
“Just thought about committing
suicide, that’s all, I just wanted to die,” says Liz Neubauer, a
gambling addict.
Liz is one of thousands of people
the casinos would rather not talk about — a mother of three — she
cheated her family as her gambling problem began to consume every aspect
of her life.
“I wouldn’t even get in the
doors — the video poker machines are right there and the first one
that was vacant, that was mine. It’s cost me as much as $500 for a
gallon of milk and I’ve gone home without the milk or the bread,”
says Neubauer.
Liz’s home life became a ritual
of lies to her loved ones. |
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LIz
Neubauer, a gambling addict.
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“I told my family I’ve been
robbed. I took my son’s car payments and gambled it.”
What did Liz tell her son when she
spent the car payment?
“Nothing… nothing,” says
Neubauer.
Those who treat gambling addicts
hear stories like Liz’s all the time.
“I would much rather be a heroin
addict than a pathological gambler,” says Dr. Robert Hunter.
Hunter knows Liz’s story and the
stories of countless other victims of Vegas.
“Prior to gambling, I think, you
learn to deal with feelings primarily by pushing them down and away.”
Hunter runs the only non-profit
clinic in town to help treat gambling addicts… those drawn to the
county’s four thousand gaming tables and more than 130,000 slot
machines.
“It is the silent addiction,”
he says. “It is the hidden addiction. One of the old cliches is they
don’t recognize us cause they don’t smell the cards on our
breath.”
Why does Hunter feel this addiction
is so secretive among gambling addicts?
“I think that the stigma for
gamblers, it’s similar, I think, maybe to that of drug and alcohol
patients thirty or forty years ago,” he says.
It’s an American addiction that
doctors are just beginning to study and attempt to understand. At its
heart is a compulsion as fierce as any addict strung out on drugs or
alcohol.
“And I could just sit and, and I
could zone out on those cards. And I didn’t have to think of where I
should be, who I should be with or what I should be doing,” says
Neubauer.
Liz says she worked just to support
her gambling habit.
For all the changes that have come
to Vegas, the workhorse of the casino floor continues to be the slot
machine, the game of choice for middle America, especially women. Close
to 70 percent of all gambling revenue flows through these one-armed
bandits. It’s escape… it’s excitement… it’s a long-shot chance
to win a jackpot that could be worth millions. But for some, it’s also
a lonely compulsion — a solitary obsession. And one game in particular
is undergoing increasing scrutiny charged with inflicting devastating
human casualties. If gambling is like a drug than video poker is its
crack cocaine.
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Video
poker machines are everywhere in Las Vegas, including laundromats.
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“My track marks were video poker,” says Tami Coder, a mother
of three, who deals blackjack in a casino. She must fight on and off the
job to keep her addiction from tearing her family apart.
“I managed to gamble through an
entire pregnancy with my youngest daughter. And uh, you know there’s a
lot of guilt and shame that goes along with this. You feel like a
monster,” says Coder.
Her husband Michael says it was a
tough situation to deal with.
“It’s real emotional because
it’s, this is something that had divided us. And has caused a great
deal of anger and frustration in our family.”
So Tami and her husband found help
from Dr. Hunter… where Michael’s revelation was the role he played
in his own wife’s addiction.
“I think it was my fault. I
introduced her to video poker,” says Michael.
“My patients gamble to escape,
video poker is the perfect game to get lost in. It’s the distilled
essence of gambling,” says Hunter.
Video poker takes down its victims
— costing them their cars, homes, marriages — at a staggering
rate… faster than drugs, alcohol or even other forms of gambling.
Hunter says, “the average problem
gambler, it’s roughly twenty years from their first bet to what we
call bottom. For video poker players it’s about two and a half
years.”
And the machines can be found
everywhere.
Tami says, “it’s very hard here
if you have this problem, because you can’t get away from the video
poker machines. They’re in the grocery stores. They’re in the
7-Eleven’s.”
The Coders say they have considered
leaving Las Vegas because of the plethora of slot machines in the city.
Former Vegas Mayor Jan Jones
condemns the everyday availability of gambling.
“I think that slot machines in
supermarkets, in 7-Eleven’s and convenient stores, that’s not about
entertainment. There’s a real difference there. That’s just about
gambling.” |
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“Las
Vegas is the city that we love to hate. But I think there is also an
underlying guilt that there really shouldn’t be a Sodom and Gomorrah.
Where people can go and spend money foolishly and get drunk and do crazy
things and possibly win a lot of money.
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“It probably took me about five months, it took, to lose it
all,” says Carl Neilson, and the others like him who don’t know
where to turn to get help for their gambling addiction and are trapped
on skid row.
Eric Fricker of the metro police
spends his days coping with the most severe causalities of Las Vegas.
“We’ve interviewed thousands of homeless and there is a good
percentage who are here because of gambling… but the other downside is
once they do become homeless, the gambling helps keep them down
sometimes. They’re gonna put their last quarter in and try to hit it
big and maybe get out of being homeless.”
Neilson agrees. “Regardless of if
you’re rich or you’re poor or you’re homeless... if you’ve got a
gambling problem, you’re gonna go in that casino and play your last
five dollars.”
And when it comes to problem
gamblers, like everything in Vegas, it’s a question of the numbers.
Some experts think as many as six
percent of the population find it impossible to walk away from a bet or
a machine. If those numbers are correct that’s more than 75,000 people
in the Las Vegas valley alone.
However the mayor feels that
percentage is too high.
“The problem is really
overstated. One percent has a problem as far as addiction is
concerned,” says Goodman. “Okay… four percent’s a lot, one
percent’s a lot. And we are trying to address that problem,” he
adds.
With gambling luring millions of
visitors to Las Vegas, super casino owners like Sheldon Aldelson are put
on the defensive at the suggestion that they profit off the problems of
gambling addicts.
“I think Las Vegas does do a lot
to help problem gamblers. All of our employees are conversant at helping
problem gamblers. When people seem to go overboard when they are
playing, our people will put their arm around and say, uh, you know, we
want to help you, what can we do, maybe you are playing a little too
much,” says Adelson.
But should more be done?
“When you have someone who’s
losing the farm, you can tell. And I don’t know of anyone who has ever
been banned from a casino because they’re an addict,” says Earley.
And although the super casinos
netted seven billion dollars, Hunter’s clinic to help gambling addicts
has only received $100,000 in corporate contributions.
Its doors could very well close in
the next three months. |
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And yet the rule of the casino is to make money. How do you know
when to stop?
“Where does the responsibility
end? It’s an excellent question… we enforce that responsibility on
drinking. If you’re a bartender and you serve somebody who’s drunk,
obviously you can have some liability,” says Earley.
But in the end, the responsibility
still falls on the shoulders of the addicts… and their willingness to
try and turn away from the tantalizing web spun by an industry that
could ultimately destroy their lives.
Neubauer says, “…I know that if
I go back out there again I’m dead.”
But the kaleidoscope of dreams and
desire that Vegas has become is something that others will never begin
to understand.
Earley says, “Las Vegas is the
city that we love to hate. But I think there is also an underlying guilt
that there really shouldn’t be a Sodom and Gomorrah. Where people can
go and spend money foolishly and get drunk and do crazy things and
possibly win a lot of money. And I think sometimes that fear of letting
yourself go, which is what Vegas is really all about, makes us kind of
say, oh, isn’t this a horrible place? When can I book the next
flight?”
This year another 33 million
tourists from all over the world will be booking their flights to Las
Vegas — coming for their cut of the American fantasy.
What they’ll have no trouble
finding is all the excess of America. It’s reflected by the neon strip
and the decadence of the super casinos. It’s testimony to the credo of
pleasure and endless good times.
But if they look further they’ll
also uncover the same news we did — that Las Vegas has become the
latest outpost for a working person’s wager and that payoff is far
richer in the long run than a good night at the slots.
Busgy Siegel’s town has gone
corporate and that surprise has a whole new generation betting real-life
odds on Las Vegas.
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