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New Mexico:
Settled in turn by Native Americans,
Spaniards, Mexicans and Yankees,
NEW MEXICO is among the most
ethnically and culturally diverse of
all the United States. Each successive
group has built upon the legacy of its
predecessors; their various histories
and achievements are closely
intertwined, and in some ways the
late-coming white Americans from the
north and east have had comparatively
little impact. Signs of the region’s
rich heritage are everywhere, from
ancient pictographs and cliff
dwellings to the design of the state’s
license plates, taken from a Zia
Indian symbol for the sun – the one
near-constant fact of life in this
arid land.
New
Mexico’s indigenous peoples –
especially the Pueblo Indians,
clear descendants of the Anasazi
– provide a sense of cultural
continuity. Despite the Pueblo
Revolt of 1680, which forced a
temporary Spanish withdrawal into
Mexico, the missionary endeavor here
was in general less brutal than
elsewhere. The proselytizing padres
eventually co-opted the natives
without destroying their traditional
ways of life, as local deities and
celebrations were incorporated into
Catholic practice. Somewhat bizarrely
to outsiders, grand churches still
stand at the center of many Pueblo
settlements, often adjacent to the
underground ceremonial chambers known
as kivas, and almost always
built in the local adobe style.
The
Americans who took over from the
Mexicans in 1848 saw New Mexico as a
useless wasteland, and left it
relatively undisturbed in their
eagerness to develop California. But
for a few mining booms and range wars
– such as the so-called Lincoln County
War, which brought Billy the Kid
to fame – New Mexico was more or less
forgotten until the US finally got
around to making it a state in 1912.
During World War II, it was the base
of operations for the top-secret
Manhattan Project, which built and
detonated the first atomic bomb, and
since then it has been home to
America’s premier weapons research
outposts. By and large, people here
work close to the land – mining,
farming and ranching – with tourism
increasingly underpinning the economy.
Northern New Mexico
centers on the magnificent landscapes
of the Rio Grande Valley, which
contains its two finest cities:
Santa Fe, the adobe-fronted
capital, and the artists’ colony and
winter resort of Taos, with its
nearby pueblo. More than a dozen
Pueblo villages can be found in
the mountainous area between the two,
while to the west lie the evocative
ancient ruins at Bandelier and
Puyé. The broad swath of
central New Mexico along I-40 –
the interstate highway that succeeded
the old Route 66 – pivots
around the state’s biggest city,
Albuquerque, with the
extraordinary mesa-top Pueblo village
of Ácoma (“Sky City”) an hour’s
drive to the west. In wild and
wide-open southern New Mexico,
deep Carlsbad Caverns are the
main attraction, while you can still
stumble upon old mining and
cattle-ranching towns that have
somehow hung on since the end of the
Wild West.
For
many visitors, the defining feature of
New Mexico is its adobe
architecture, as seen on homes,
churches and even shopping malls and
motels. Adobe bricks are a sun-baked
mixture of earth, sand, charcoal and
chopped grass or straw, set with a
mortar of much the same composition,
and then plastered over with mud and
straw. The color of the soil used
dictates the color of the final
building, and thus subtle variations
can be seen all across the state.
However, adobe is a far from
convenient material: it needs
re-plastering every few years and turns
to mud when water seeps up from the
ground, so that many buildings have to
be sporadically raised and bolstered
by the insertion of rocks at their
base. These days, most of what looks
like adobe is actually painted cement
or concrete, but even this looks
attractive enough in its own
semi-kitsch way, and hunting out such
superb old adobes as the remote
Santuario de Chimayó on the “High
Road” between Taos and Santa Fe,
the formidable church of San
Francisco de Asis in Ranchos de
Taos, or the multi-tiered dwellings of
Taos Pueblo, can provide the
focus of an enjoyable New Mexico tour.
You’ll also become familiar with
another New Mexico trademark, the
bright-red ristras, or strings
of dried chili peppers, that
adorn doorways throughout the state;
festooned on restaurant entrances,
they serve as warnings of the fiery
delights that await within.
Click here to go to New
Mexico State web site |