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In
sharp contrast to the brutal internal conflicts in Guatemala or
the grinding poverty of Nicaragua, Costa Rica has become
synonymous with stability and prosperity – Costa Ricans enjoy the
highest rate of literacy, health care, education and life
expectancy in the isthmus. Unlike so many of its neighbors, the
country has a long democratic tradition of free and open
elections, no standing army (it was abolished in 1948) and even a
Nobel Peace Prize to its name, won by former president, Oscar
Arias, a key architect in the Peace Plan that helped bring an end
to the conflicts in the region during the 1980s.
In recent years Costa Rica has
also become the prime eco-tourism destination in Central
America, if not in all the Americas, due in no small part to an
efficient promotion machine that trumpets the country's complex
system of national parks and wildlife refuges. Every year hundreds
of thousands of visitors – mainly from the United States and
Canada – come to walk trails through million-year-old
rainforests, raft foaming whitewater rapids, surf on the
Pacific beaches and climb the volcanoes that punctuate
the country's mountainous spine. More than anything it is the
enduring natural beauty that impresses. Milk-thick twilight
and dawn mists gather in the clefts and ridges divided by high
mountain passes; on the Pacific coast, carmine and mauve sunsets
splash down into the sea like meteors; vaulting canopy trees and
thick deciduous understorey's carpet large areas of undisturbed
rainforest, and vestiges of high-altitude cloud forest offer
glimpses into a misty, primeval universe, home to the jaguar, the
lumbering Jurassic tapir and the truly resplendent quetzal.
One glib accusation you're
almost certain to hear lobbed at the tiny nation is that it has
no culture or history. It's certainly true that there are no
ancient Mesoamerican monuments on the scale of Guatemala or
Honduras, and just one percent of the population is of indigenous
extraction, so you will see little native culture. However, anyone
who spends some time in the country will find that Costa Rica's
character is rooted in distinct local cultures, from the
Afro-Caribbean province of Limón, with its Creole cuisine, games
and patois, to the traditional ladino values embodied by
the sabanero (cowboy) of Guanacaste. Above all, you're sure
to be left with mental snapshots of la vida campesina, or
rural life – whether it be aloof horsemen trotting by on
dirt roads, coffee-plantation day-labourers setting off to work in
the dawn mists of the Highlands, or avocado-pickers cycling home
at sunset.
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